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Many safe, useful, nonchemical techniques of plant protection and pest management may lower or remove the need to spray. Other methods are most useful when utilized with pesticides. To implement management practices properly and to decrease losses, garden enthusiasts must be aware of the types of insects that attack plants and understand pest biology.


Bug management techniques fall under four groups: cultural, mechanical, biological, and chemical. Keeping plants healthy and preventing plant tension assists plants to better stand up to and fix the damage triggered by a pest or mite bug. Some evidence shows that healthy plants resist infestation by pests better than plants with low vitality.


Numerous severe illness or insect problems can be halted or slowed by routinely checking out the garden, knowing what to try to find, acknowledging potential problems, and intervening early. Cultural methods of reducing bug and mite issues in the landscape consist of preparing the soil; picking plants that are adjusted to the site conditions, that are not appealing to bugs, which are tolerant of insects and diseases; turning crops; interplanting; timing planting dates to prevent bugs; managing weeds; and planting "trap" crops.

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If tilling is considered required, think about doing it in the fall when the life cycles of lots of insects brings them near the surface area. At the surface area, pests become exposed to the weather condition as well as birds and other natural opponents.




Examine plants thoroughly (tops of leaves, bottoms of leaves, stems, and soil) prior to planting to be sure they are clean. Consider planting identified as resistant to insects. Resistant cultivars are those that fend off, are unattractive to, or otherwise are inappropriate as food for certain bugs or that stand up to feeding by certain bugs with little reduction in yield or quality.


If deer are an issue in a garden, choose a plant that is naturally resistant to deer predation over a plant that is more attractive to deer. A native downy hawthorn (Crataegus mollis) would be a better choice than an Eastern redbud (Cercis canadensis). Planting two comparable crops in successive years tends to increase pest issues.

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Some insects hibernate in the soil or litter around plants or lay eggs in or on the host plant. Do not grow the exact same type of veggie in the same place each year (Figure 84). Usage associated crops in a site only once every 3 or 4 years. The rotation duration for avoiding some tomato diseases might be 5 to seven years.




Crop rotation is most effective on insects that establish on a few plants. Bugs that become severe on cabbage most likely likewise infest nearby mustard, broccoli, and collards, but they may not spread to cabbage planted on the other side of the garden.


Interplanting can likewise slow the spread of diseases, providing the gardener more time to develop a management strategy. Marigolds and garlic are two plants advised as insect repellants; however, most of these recommendations are unverified. Sometimes, the proof shows these plants are ineffective repellants. Some insects do not overwinter locally however move from southern states each year.

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The flowers of thistle, plantain, knotweed, and dandelion are very important to honey bee populations. Removing weeds after flowering however before seed set offers food for the honey bees but keeps the weeds from continuing to spread. Another method to handle insect pests is to plant a crop that is really appealing to pests and then deal with the trap crop with imp source insecticide.


Crop rotation is a valuable cultural approach for reducing bug and disease problems, but many garden enthusiasts do not have the space to sufficiently implement this practice. Where area is restricted, it might be best to enable the garden to lay fallow for a year or 2 or more. Consider raised beds with brand-new soil or plant in containers when you understand a disease issue exists.


Almost any large non-venomous pest can be selected off at any stage. To avoid the task of hand-squashing the bugs, knock the bugs and egg clusters into a coffee can or quart container with a percentage of water and a little bit of dish cleaning agent. Insect traps can help with detection and management.

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Also, these traps do not capture some wingless types, along with those species active only during the day (diurnal) as opposed to active during the night (nocturnal). Pheromone traps are utilized for finding the presence of insects or often for interfering with insect mating practices. Adult females produce and release a chemical smell appealing to males of the same species.


Rainfall, cool temperature levels, wind speed, and Learn More wind instructions can minimize the lures' efficiency. Heat, sunshine, or improper storage can damage fragrant lures. The very best success takes place when the insect density is low and movement into the location is very little. Some physical traps are easy to make from products around the house.


Mix 1 quart of clay with 2 gallons of water and 1 tablespoon of liquid soap in a sprayer. Continuously upset the sprayer to prevent clumping of the clay. Reapply each to 3 weeks. This barrier is preventive; it will not work if an insect bug is already established.

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Some pests, such as the azalea stem borer and the dogwood club reference gall (Figure 813), can be managed by pruning contaminated branches out of plagued plants and destroying them. If twigs infested with dogwood twig borers are pruned in late spring or early summer season, the plants should still flower with no problem the following spring - flying insect control and prevention in Medford.